Enoteca Chiaia

One of the things you wouldn’t expect to find where you find Enoteca Chiaia is a great wine bar, and yet that’s exactly what happens to be there. Situated on a slightly forgotten stretch of Garrat Lane in between Earlsfield and Wandsworth, its close neighbours include a Tesco Express, a Pizza Hut delivery and a BYOB Thai Restaurant.

It’d taken me a while to find the time to visit, but finally me and a friend stood outside its rather rough and ready exterior. Outside I’d have to say it doesn’t look very preposing, more like a pop-up charity shop. Inside was rather eclectic with seemingly several different seating styles battling it out for dominance.

It still being midsummer myself and my companion decided to sit outside. I would like to say that if you squinted you could have been on the Italian Riviera, but no it was pretty much like sitting on the side of a major road, looking at where some new flats were being built. The menu and wine list though were like a summer’s evening in Liguria, plenty to tickle the tongue in both liquid and solid form.

The wine list of course concentrates on Italy, with the median price tag being around £40. There are of course some geographical and cost outliers, but it is a list which appears to have been together with much care and attention. We had though chosen a rose from the specials list at £35 grown by Umani Rochni and made with 100% Montepulciano grapes. It was light, lighter than many Provencal roses and delicately flavoured, well worth it.

To eat we had a charcuterie platter which was fine, but salami, bresaola etc. are nice and reliable, but a bit seen it done it. The olives though were plump and juicy, and the homemade focaccia stuffed with salsa verde and warm porchetta was delicious and substantial.

The standout though was a special, a beef tartare that would be a vegan’s nightmare. Well-seasoned with a cheesy eggy sauce topping, we had to wait a bit for it, but it was worth it. This had replaced a prawn tartare that I was especially looking forward to and will be a regular feature on the menu from September.

Our bill when it came, without tip, was £75 which appeared to be exceptional value for what we had had, and the passion which seemed evident from the staff. Walking into pay I noticed that they might a further speciality out of their smoked Negroni, after half a bottle of wine and a pint beforehand, I was getting fairly smoked at this point and was determined to try it and strong armed my companion into joining me.

Well at £12 it was an expensive cocktail, but making one was a theatrical production to behold, with smoke rising from red liquid like some sort of outtake from an alcoholic ‘Game of Thrones.’ The liquid met my lips in my own reenactment of the red wedding and was one of the finest Negroni’s I have enjoyed (and infinitely more than one’s I haven’t.)

So, my advice is if you like wine, and live anywhere near Garrat Lane, get yourself down here and try a glass of something new

Enoteca Chiaia, 178 Garratt Ln, London SW18 4ED