Manny Dartin

You could be forgiven for thinking that Earlsfield needs more brunch choices like a dog needs more fleas. Throw a stone from the station and it’s as likely to land in a latte as it would be to whack some poor unsuspecting soul.

Opposite Earlsfield station is pretty much brunch central and Manny Dartin’s exterior is certain to attract the curious seeking a mid-morning feeding. Inside it’s plain but comfortable, though on the day I visited there was only one other customer, so I have no idea what it’s like when’s crowded. I must admit to having problems with the menu. Firstly, I found it expensive with prices range from £6.50 to £12.50. Secondly and probably more importantly none of the dishes fitted my preconceptions of lunch. What the hell is an escabeche? Hint Googling doesn’t help. Who on earth are the Rockstar Bakers, why would Jon Bon Jovi be able to bake better sourdough than Greggs? It might be just me this strange mix of the obscure and the hyperbole left me cold.

My mood started to improve when I tasted a truly excellent and reasonably priced flat white. It got even better when talking to the staff, who were open and friendly. Like nearly every establishment in South West London that’s not trying to alienate their customers, Manny Dartin is dog friendly and during weekday mornings looks like it’s laptop friendly as well.

Looking for a main ingredient that I wouldn’t knowingly feed to my enemies, I’d finally settled on a salt beef focaccia bun. This came with a turmeric poached egg, which I had fried instead and a range of slaw and pickles. What arrived (and it swiftly arrived as well) was a posh roll that looked a bit like what serving whatever was left in your fridge would look like.

I have to say though that the focaccia was light, the salt beef was chunky and tasty, the slaw had a sharpness to it. All the individual elements worked…I just wouldn’t have considered putting them together that way myself. For me it did sort of work, and it was definitely a brunch rather than a breakfast…I didn’t eat again till the evening.

The bill came to about £19 for a dish and two coffees, this is obviously a lot when you’re just after a quick bite, but for the occasional treat probably about right. The question is do you consider it a treat when the menu feels like a test and the ingredients all come with a certificate of authenticity. I don’t know, and if you don’t know if you enjoyed something you probably didn’t and I leave my thoughts there.

Rob
Manny Dartin Brunch Café
366 Garratt Lane,
Earlsfield, SW18 4ES